Last summer, us guys continued our tradition of touring at least 1 country we had never been to before. We decided on Georgia & Azerbaijan. They seemed less expensive compared to other European countries. Reddit did not throw up any red flags when it came to visas or general xenophobia. The 2 countries were supposed to be very beautiful & steeped in turbulent history.

Day 1

Our Tbilisi adventure kicked off with a memorable day tour led by the warm and knowledgeable Racho Gevorkyan, whose deep love for Georgia added a personal touch to every stop. We began our morning at the Chronicles of Georgia, a massive, monument overlooking a reservoir. It towers above the city with statues of old kings & queens. From there, we visited two of Tbilisi’s iconic places of worship, the majestic Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba), one of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the world. The beautiful cathedral has a large walkway leading to the church with a golden dome. The interior has many murals, polyptychs & strangely enough, the bodily remnants of saints. The more intimate and cozy Blue Cathedral offered a peaceful contrast to the city’s bustle while being situated right on a narrow bustling street.

Before diving deeper into the city, we recharged with a traditional Georgian breakfast featuring nigvziani badrijani, eggplant rolls filled with garlicky walnut paste, a perfect blend of earthy and savory flavors. Fueled up, we enjoyed a breezy riverboat ride around the Bridge of Peace, soaking in Tbilisi’s blend of old-world charm and modern architecture. We ascended via cable car to the towering Mother of Georgia statue, where panoramic views of the city left us speechless. Back on the ground, our jingoist driver showed us a building where apparently Joseph Stalin had robbed a bank in his youth. Georgians have an ironic love-hate relation with Russia, exemplified by our driver. He wanted to spend his holiday in Russia all the while berating the Russians for invading their country.

Lunch was a delight of steaming mushroom khinkali, Georgia’s famous soup dumplings, and churchkela, a sweet, chewy walnut-and-grape treat that doubles as an energy boost. In the evening, we strolled through Liberty Square and wandered into the historic Abanotubani district, home to Tbilisi’s renowned sulfur baths, whose domed brick roofs hint at centuries of tradition. We rented a 4 person bath complete with a mekise scrub and a steam room. We ended the day with familiar flavors from back home at a cozy Indian restaurant. We took a long walk soaking in the sights of Tbilisi at night back to our cozy Airbnb back in the old city.

Day 2

Day two began with a scenic group tour led by our enthusiastic guide, Alexandre, whose stories and humor made the day not just informative but genuinely fun. Our first stop was the stunning Ananuri Fortress, a historic stronghold perched along the turquoise waters of the Aragvi River. It is now a memorial to Ana who sacrificed herself instead of giving up the fortress’s secret entryway. The stone towers and narrow, short walkways offer a glimpse of Georgia’s rich history.

From there, we ventured into Georgia’s rich culinary and drinking culture. A warm wine and chacha tasting introduced us to local varieties, aromatic, full-bodied wines and the fiery kick of traditional Georgian brandy (chacha). We followed this with a hearty lunch of freshly made mushroom khinkali and khachapuri. A surprise stop for honey tasting delighted our palates with honeys from the flowers of chestnut, blueberry, acacia & even a chacha-flavored one.

The adventure continued with a car ride up winding mountain roads to the iconic Gergeti Church, dramatically set against the looming peak of Mount Kazbegi. Though clouds danced around the summit, the wind, the view and the atmosphere was panoramic & surreal. On the way back, we paused at the shimmering Zhinvali Reservoir, its azure surface catching the evening light. After returning to Tbilisi, we ended the day walking through its vibrant nightlife with ****riverside cafés, gentleman clubs and softly lit yet noisy bars.

Day 3

Day three began with a journey into the natural wonders of western Georgia. Leaving behind the cityscapes of Tbilisi, we ventured toward the lush region of Samegrelo to explore the breathtaking Martvili Canyons. Our driver, a native Georgian with a strong Sochi accent and a peculiar mafia-esque built, spent most of the drive vaping peach. Rafting through emerald-green waters, surrounded by moss-draped cliffs and cascading waterfalls. From there, we descended into the Prometheus Caves, where dramatic lighting brought to life ancient stalactites, stalagmites and an underground river. The Prometheus caves were underwhelming to be honest. Walking around dark underground caves looking at the same nothing all the time is not appealing to me. Most of the Georgians we met were friendly and pleasant, but most of the shopkeepers and a couple of waitresses had a really unenthusiastic dour attitude towards us. It almost felt like they were doing us a favor by serving us. Maybe, the attitude was mostly towards tourists or maybe just Indians; which is sort of understandable considering the reputation of Indian tourists. It was still a sullen reminder of xenophobia and subconscious stereotypes.

By evening, we made our way to the vibrant coastal city of Batumi seated on the Black Sea. We checked into our modern Airbnb at ORBI City, with sweeping views of the coast and the glittering skyline. After settling in, we headed to an open beachside Indian restaurant, where the familiar spices mingled perfectly with the sea breeze. With energy still to spare, we wandered along the beautifully lit Batumi Boulevard, a lively stretch along the beach lined with sculptures, palm trees, musical fountains and seaside cafés. The night ended on a strange note with a spontaneous visit to a local casino where we changed our minds at the last moment about losing money and returned home.

Day 4

Our fourth day in Georgia was all about immersing ourselves in the beauty and rhythm of Batumi. We began our morning with a tranquil escape to the Batumi Botanical Garden, a lush haven perched above the Black Sea. Wandering through exotic flora from around the world, we found ourselves pausing often to take in the panoramic views from clifftop trails. We also witnessed the noisy wedding tradition of honking at the newlyweds’ car. A whole bunch of cars were honking relentlessly while the newlyweds’ car kept circling the roundabout. Even our pleasant cab driver lady joined in.

Next, we headed to the Batumi Dolphinarium. The bond between trainers and dolphins was heartwarming, and it added a surprisingly emotional highlight to my day. We returned to the Batumi Boulevard, which felt even livelier than the night before, and hopped on the Ferris Wheel near the beach. From the top, Batumi’s coastline and skyline unfolded before us, a blend of modern glitz and seaside serenity. The highlight from the top was the romantic Ali and Nino monument, a moving sculpture that tells the tale of star-crossed lovers from different cultures.

We strolled back to our place wandering & exploring the city’s iconic public spaces: the elegant Europe Square, where classic architecture & kingly statues meet modern energy, the Piazza Square, an Italian-style gem in the heart of Batumi, where live music and warm cafés invited us to linger. They were a mesmerising couple of days in this incredible country filled with panoramic sceneries & beautiful people. The cheesy food notwithstanding, my mind would always wander to the sights of the immensely beautiful people, the kind you would write songs & poems about. In fact, I might just write a song of my own.

The next day we took a flight to Baku. My first time on an Embraer aircraft. Right on takeoff, I could see the Black Sea. Our journey took us directly from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. A quick check-in at our serviced apartment & we were off strolling around the city, soaking in the evening lights. Our search for a tourist SIM card led us on a wild goose chase ending at the 28 May Mall. We had a scrumptious dinner on Nizami Street, a vibrant strip with a lively atmosphere. It is a shopper’s paradise complete with luxury boutiques, local shops, cafes, and restaurants.

Day 6

Our second day in Azerbaijan was an unforgettable introduction to the country’s unique blend of natural wonders and spiritual heritage. We began with a serene visit to the Bibi-Heybat Mosque, a beautiful structure overlooking the main commercial port on the Caspian Sea, where the calm atmosphere and elegant Islamic architecture set the tone for the day. From there, we ventured into the ancient landscape of Gobustan National Park, home to prehistoric rock carvings that whisper stories from thousands of years ago; etched into stone.

Things quickly turned fiery (literally) as we explored Azerbaijan’s geological marvels. We rumbled off-road to witness the bubbling mud volcanoes, one of the quirkiest and strangest sights I’ve ever seen. Not far away, we stood in awe at Yanar Dag, the legendary burning mountain, where flames erupt from the ground due to natural gas seepage, burning continuously for millennia. This was echoed by our visit to the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a 17th-century Zoroastrian pilgrimage site where fire has long been worshipped as a divine force. The unexpected existence of Hindu idols in a Zoroastrian temple hints at a deception to bait Indian tourists. A look at wikipedia, tells me that the temple was established by Indian traders in the 17th century and used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship

We ended our day walking around Nizami Street. Dining back at the same cozy restaurant (Alove) since us guys couldn’t get enough of this one petite, lovely waitress. The allure of the Azeri enchantress notwithstanding, I had an awesome time snacking on the delicious Baklava.

Day 7

Our third day in Azerbaijan took us into the lush, mountainous region of Gabala, where nature and tradition meet in perfect harmony. We began with a short hike to the scenic Yeddi Gozel Waterfall, meaning "Seven Beauties", where water cascades gracefully through forested cliffs, creating a tranquil setting. From there, we visited the historic Juma Mosque, one of Azerbaijan’s oldest, with its elegant brickwork and peaceful courtyard. This grand mosque has apparently withstood many battles & invasions and has been re-constructed & renovated many times.

The day’s highlight was a ride up the Tufandag Mountain cable car, which lifted us above emerald slopes and alpine meadows, offering panoramic views that felt almost surreal. The air grew crisp as we ascended, and at the top, the vast Caucasus range unfolded before us, a breathtaking reminder of Azerbaijan’s diverse landscapes. A couple of the guys even took a ride on the large swings overlooking the cliffs. We wrapped up our day with a peaceful stop at Nohur Lake, its still waters reflecting the surrounding forested hills like a mirror. We ended our day as usual on Nizami Street back at the same diner gawking at the bewitching maiden serving us our dinner, wishing at least one of us had the nerves to ask her out.

Day 8

The next morning, after some much needed sleep, we set out to explore Baku. A coastal city seated in a bay right on the Caspian sea. One can see the small pumps in the oilfields in the distance. Apparently, oil is Azerbaijan’s major export. A walk around the Baku Boulevard will reveal the dichotomy between the beautiful ancient sandstone facades of the old city against the rigid glass-panels of the modern towers. The old city or Icheri-sheher is paved with stone walkways and surrounded by old-looking sandstone buildings. I presume they might have been renovated considering the absence of any blemishes & black spots. The Azerbaijani culture seems very similar to that of Turkey & old Persia. Their language & mannerisms have a distinct middle-eastern tilt & the words sound very similar to Iranian-Persian words. They don’t have a written script for their language but make use of Latin characters, with certain additions. For example - ‘x’ is sounded as ‘kh’, "ş” is sounded as ‘sh’. This is mostly found in Turkic languages.

We made our way to Shahdag in the evening. A sceninc mountain peak known for the Shahdag Mountain Resort, a popular tourist destination known for its skiing (although we went in the summer) and other outdoor activities. Our hotel Pik Palace was situated in a cluster of hotels surrounding the adventure sports complex. I was just waiting to dive into the covered heated pool & the jacuzzi.

Day 9

My day began in the gym & the pool. The heated pool & the jacuzzi was really relaxing after a week of sleepless relentless walking. I was surprised that the breakfast buffet had a couple of Indian dishes. I suppose they do get many tourists from India. With our hunger sated, we embarked on what was the most fun day of our vacation. The adventure & recreation complex was replete with ziplines, cable cars, ski-lifts, dune buggies, offroad quad bikes, a roller coaster and even para gliding. I had a lot of fun driving the quad bike around the hills. It was thrilling to descend the hills at high speed. The exhilaration of off-road biking was wearing off right when I decided to take a shot at paragliding. I approached the pilot with a mixture of fear & anticipation. The run up for takeoff led to a boost of adrenaline while I felt my stomach drop a 100 metres as the chute ascended. My hands tightened on the harness every time I felt a gust of wind. Despite all the fear & anxiety, it was an inspiring experience. Sitting on the edge of a knife while peering into a panoramic valley was enlightening & invigorating to say the least. There is illumination beyond pain & fear.

After all that excitement, we decided to take a relaxing dip in the pool. I loosened up in the jacuzzi after a massage, followed it with a stint in the steam room and the sauna. We concluded the day in the gaming arcade. We bowled, played air hockey & spent our time playing shoot-em-up & racing games. My personal favorite was the alien shooter game. There is nothing like gunning down a horde of blood thirsty aliens to cap off the day.

Day 10

Our last day in Azerbaijan was a breathtaking journey through the country’s northern highlands. We began in Quba, a charming town known for its orchards and serene atmosphere, before making our way to the Red Village, home to one of the largest Mountain Jewish communities in the world. The Jewish sterotype of bearded men in top hats was conspicuosly absent here. From there, we ascended into the Caucasus Mountains to reach Khinaliq, one of Europe’s highest and most ancient continuously inhabited mountain villages. I rode in an old beat up 4x4 Lada Niva. My first time in a Soviet-era Russian car. The views were absolutely stunning, with terraced homes clinging to steep slopes and clouds drifting low across the valleys. As the day wound down, we made a final stop at the striking Candy Cane Mountains, where bands of red and white rock swirled across the hills like a painter’s brushstroke. A colorful farewell to a country that had shown us so many layers of beauty and history.